What Not To Do in Cinque Terre

When we arrived in Cinque Terre at 10am on Monday morning, the sun was beating down, people were queuing in stop-and-go traffic on a tiny section of coastal trail on the way to Vernazza. It was really not how you want to spend your time on a trail run. But the trails were still beautiful and had awakened the trail runner within me. So, I was determined to figure out a way to enjoy a run on these popular trails. Hint: I hit the trails early and ran fast. If you'd like to do the same, keep reading!

Overview / Route

Running up trail though coastal cliffs, down to pastel-colored villages, and running up again through terraced vineyards is an experience you won't soon forget. My route in Cinque Terre was 30.54km with 1911m elevation gain from Levanto, Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, Riomaggiore, to La Spezia. I took some extra time and visited all the cities, clocking in five hours. If I had more time, I would have gone all the way down the peninsula to Portovenere. I took the train back from La Spezia to Levanto.

How to Get to The Trail

You can take a train from Milan or Genoa, depending on where you are coming from. Milan has a well-connected international airport. But you would have to take one train from the airport into the city center, and then another train to Cinque Terre. If you fly into Genoa, you can take the train towards La Spezia, and then get off at any of the five villages. Because we were already in Milan Center, we booked a direct train to Levanto with Trenitalia.

When You Should Start

Since I was starting in Levanto and wanted to make it to La Spezia, I woke up at 4am. Crowds of people start to get out on the popular trails (Monterosso to Vernazza to Cornigilia) around 9am.

Trail Running in Cinque Terre Trail Running Map

This detailed trail map charts your running journey through the enchanting Cinque Terre, highlighting each distinct section from Levanto to La Spezia. I've marked key points of interest, elevation changes, and village entry points based on my personal experience running this route. The color-coded sections help you visualize the progression through each terre, while markers indicate notable features like water fountains, technical trail segments, and scenic viewpoints. Use this map in conjunction with the section descriptions to plan your pace and identify potential rest stops or photo opportunities along this spectacular coastal route.

Learn how to download the map for your own offline use by reading how I navigate on the trail .

Itinerary

Trail running in Cinque Terre offers an unparalleled blend of coastal beauty, cultural immersion, and technical challenge. As someone who's experienced these ancient paths firsthand, I can attest that this route along Italy's Ligurian coast delivers a unique fusion of seaside vistas, historic villages, and demanding terrain. From the steep vineyard steps to the smooth coastal trails, each section presents its own character and challenges. This guide breaks down my journey through all five terres, plus the connecting segments from Levanto to La Spezia, creating a complete running adventure through one of Italy's most stunning regions.

Personal Highlights

As a trail runner, certain sections of my Cinque Terre route offered particularly memorable experiences that combined technical challenge with stunning scenery. The coastal paths provided unique terrain that demanded focus while rewarding with constant sea views. The descent into Vernazza stands out for its technical satisfaction and visual payoff, while my post-run exploration of Riomaggiore at night offered a different perspective of these historic trails. These highlights showcase what makes Cinque Terre special for runners: the perfect blend of challenging paths, coastal views, and cultural immersion.

Dancing with the Mediterranean: My Coastal Path Experience

As I navigated the ancient paths connecting the five villages, I found myself constantly drawn to the mesmerizing coastline below. The narrow trails, carved into the cliffs centuries ago, offered a unique running experience where each footfall felt like part of a delicate dance with the sea. I remember one particular stretch where the morning sun painted the water in shades of turquoise and sapphire, while the salt-laden breeze kept me cool despite the climbing intensity. The constant presence of the Mediterranean became my silent running partner, its waves providing a rhythmic soundtrack to my journey.

Vernazza: A Runner's Rainbow Reward

Coming around that final bend into Vernazza remains one of my most vivid memories. After a challenging section of technical trail, the village suddenly appeared below me like a painter's masterpiece. The cluster of pink, yellow, and orange houses seemed to glow in the mid-morning light, their colors intensified by the backdrop of the deep blue sea. I paused my run here, something I rarely do, but the view demanded it. Watching the fishing boats bob in the small harbor while catching my breath, I understood why this village is often called the jewel of Cinque Terre.

Twilight Magic in Riomaggiore

After completing my run in La Spezia, I made a point to return to Riomaggiore for the evening. The decision to experience this village after sunset proved magical. The narrow caruggi (alleyways) took on a mysterious quality in the growing darkness, while the harbor lights reflected off the water like floating stars. I found a quiet spot near the marina where the evening air was filled with the mingled scents of salt water and fresh-baked focaccia. The village's famous tower stood silhouetted against the darkening sky, providing a perfect conclusion to my Cinque Terre adventure.

Where You Should Stay

If you want to beat the crowds, you'll have to get up early. We decided to spend the night on the coast to help us do this. If you'd like to save money, camping (really just glamping in a park) is an option here. Wild camping is not allowed within Cinque Terre, so we stayed in a campsite just outside, in Levanto. Staying in Monterosso, or another coastal town is also an option if you prefer. I'd recommend Monterosso if you want to run Southeast along the coast and visit all the cities in one direction. Cornigilia and Manarola if you want something more quiet.

How to Navigate While Trail Running

The trails are really well-marked. You have signs to the next city at most intersections. The trails are also blazed with symbols and numbers. In the case that you get lost, you can download my map above to find your way.

Finding Water and Bringing Food

Water and food are the most important considerations when you're trail running. Water is easy to come by if you don't mind drinking tap water. All of the cities have water fountains in the center. I filled up at Vernazza, Corniglia, and Riomaggiore. For food, there are supermarkets and bakeries in all the cities. But I’d recommend bringing some with you if you can. Depending on how early to leave, the supermarkets and bakeries might not be open. I brought a banana, some bread, and a few energy gels (carbohydrates and sugars).

Best Time to Go

The best time to visit Cinque Terre depends on your goals. Summer offers reliable weather while fall has fewer crowds but some weather risks.

Costs

As you can see, the costs of trail running in Cinque Terre are quite minimal. Of course, these are only the basics. We bought pizza, gelato, and beer after the run. Optional, but recommended of course :)